Border-forming mechanism for fabrics.



W. H. CARTER. BORDER FORMING MECHANISM FOR FABRICS. APPLICATION HLBD mm. 29, 1911.

1 20,944. Patented Mar. 19, 1912.

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APPLICATION FILED 11:13.29, 1911.

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W. H. CARTER.

BORDER FORMING MECHANISM FOR FABRICS.

APPLICATION FILED 11,111. 29, 1911.

1,020,944. Patented Mar. 19, 1912.

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UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

WILLIAM H. CARTER, OF NEEDHAM HEIGHTS, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR TO SPRING- FIELD KNITTING CO., OF SPRINGFIELD, MASSACHUSETTS, A CORPORATION OF MASSACHUSETTS.

BORDER-FORMING MECHANISM FOR FABRICS.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Mar. 19, 1912.

Application filed March 29, 1911. .Serial No. 617,628.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, VVILLIAM I-I. CARTER, a citizen of the United States, and a resident of Needham Heights, in the county of Norfolk and State of Massachusetts, have invented an Improvement in Border-Forming Mechanism for Fabrics, of which the following description, in connection with the accompanying drawings, is a specification, like characters on the drawings representing like parts.

This invention relates to border forming mechanism for fabrics.

In order that the principle of the invention may be readily understood, I have disclosed a single embodiment thereof in the accompanying drawings, wherein- Figure 1 is a side elevation of border forming mechanism embodying my invention; Fig. 2 is a similar view but representing the parts differently positioned; Fig. 3 is a plan view of a portion of the mechanism shown in Fig. 1; Fig. 4 is a rear elevation of the mechanism shown in Fig. 1; Fig. 5 is a front elevation thereof; Figs. 6 to 10 inclusive are diagrammatic representations indicating the preferred mode of laying the loops or stitches of the border; Fig. 11. is an edge view of the finger about which the loops or stitches are formed; Fig. 12 is a plan View thereof; Figs. 13 and 14 are re spectively plan views, somewhat diagrammatic, illustrating the manner heretofore practiced and the manner practiced by me of laying the first stitches of a shell; and Fig. 15 is a diagrammatic view of a shell formed in accordance with my invention.

Ornamental borders for knitted or other fabrics, such as under-garments, are well known. The patents to Morrow, No. 413,077, October 15, 1889, and No. 414,233, November 5, 1889, clearly disclose the same. The said borders are therein represented as composed of a series of clusters or shells, each consisting of a series of radiating or generally fan-shaped stitches formed by an eye pointed machine needle, a crochet hook or knitting needle, and a hook for a supplemental thread. The clusters or shells are formed scriatz'm, and the main and supplemental threads thereof are preferably continuous throughout the border. The stitches or loops forming the ribs of the clusters or shells shown in said Merrow patents are laid along substantially true radial lines and extend in fan shape both to the right and to the left of a median line drawn from the center of the cluster to the edge of the fabric at right angles to said edge.

The object of my invention is to produce a machine made shell or cluster wherein the stitches or loops all tend in the same general direction,-that is, toward the right or toward the left as the observer looks toward the fabric; or wherein the threads or loops are so laid that the impression gained by the observer is that of a series of loops extending to the right or to the left as stated.

In carrying out my invention I preferably also supply an increased amount of thread in the formation of the loops or stitches, so that the shell instead of being substantially flat as heretofore, is substantially raised from the surface of the fabric or given a puffed appearance.

In carrying out my invention I preferably employ a crochet or over-seal'ning machine of the general type disclosed in the Patent to Morrow, No. 428,508, May 20, 1890, although it is obvious that any suitable means may be employed for producing the border referred to. The mechanism preferably employed includes an eye pointed sewing machine needle, a crochet hook or knitting needle, and a supplemental thread feeding hook.

Referring more particularly to the drawings, the frame of the machine is indicated at 1., the eye pointed sewing machine needle herein represented as vertically reciprocable is indicated at 2, the crochet hook or knitting needle at- 3 and the feeding hook for the supplemental thread at 4. These may be positioned as indicated in the said Herrow patents and operated as therein disclosed or in any other suitable manner.

The presser foot is indicated at 5 and is preferably spring pressed against the upper face of the fabric and is provided with the customary recess or opening for the passage of the needle 2. The fabric to which the ornamental border is to be applied is introduced at the front of the machine or from the right viewing Fig. 1, and is passed in a step by step manner beneath the presser foot 5, the under face of which is recessed from front to rear for the more free reciprocation of the fabric therebeneath as hereinafter described.

In order suitably to feed the fabric to which the border is to be applied, I prefer ably provide a feed slide 6 having a serrated or saw tooth edge 7, the teeth whereof are. inclined to the'left as indicated in Fig. 1, and an extension 8 having a pin 9 received in a slot 10 of a feed arm 11 pivoted at 12 upon the framing of the machine. Heretofore so far as I am aware, the fabric has been fed in a step by step manner in one direction only beneath the presser foot, each cluster or shell being formed when the fabric is at rest. In accordance with my invention, however, I impart a step by step forward feeding movement to the fabric and also a comparatively slight rearward movement following each forward movement. This adjunctive rearward movement is for the purpose of positioning the stitches of the shells or clusters in the manner already indicated. It is evident that any suit-- able means may be employed to this end. Preferably, however, I employ a gear wheel 13 fast upon the shaft 14 and a pinion 15 fast upon a shaft 16 and having thereon an eccentric 17 receiving an eccentric strap 18 of an arm 19 having a slotted pivotal connection 20 with the feed arm 11. In this manner, the feed arm, and consequently the feed slide 6, are reciprocated in both directions. The extent of each forward feeding movement is in this embodiment of my in vention materially in excess of the extent of the adjunctive or rearward feeding move ment.

Upon a face of the gear 13 I suitably secure or form a cam 21 to under-ride and elevate periodically the roll 22 loose upon a lever 23 pivoted at 23 upon the framing of the machine. The free end of the feed slide 6 rests upon the said roll 22 and the periodic elevation of said roll therefore periodically elevates the feed slide and simultaneously impart-s a feeding movement thereto. Within the scope of my invention one or more cams 21 may be employed.

In order to effect the rearward feed of the fabric I provide the gear 13 with a cam 24 having a thin edge or portion 25, which in the rotation of the gear 13 is periodically brought beneath the roller 22 and thereby momentarily elevates the same to effect the rearward feeding of the fabric. The gear 13 is in this embodiment of my invention driven in the direction of the arrow adjacent thereto in Fig. 1 and the relation of the parts is such that when the cam 21 engages and lifts the roller 22, the eccentric 17 is moving the feed slide 6 to the left, viewing Fig. 1. Therefore, the feed slide when elevated into feeding relation to the fabric moves the same by means of its teeth 7 a suitable distance forward or to the left viewing Fig. 1. The continued rotation of the gear 13 brings the cam 24 beneath the roller 22, thereby again to elevate the feed slide 6.

WVhen the feed slide 6 is momentarily elevated by the cam 24 the eccentric 17 has now reached such a position that it imparts a rearward movement or movement to the right of the feed slide 6. Therefore, the momentary engagement of the edge 25 of the cam 24 effects a slight rearward move ment of the fabric. As clearly indicated in Figs. 1, 2 and 3, the feed slide 6 is also provided with fabric engaging saw teeth 7 oppositely inclined with the respect to the teeth 7, to effect the rearward feeding movement of the fabric. Therefore the cams 21, 24 act upon the feed slide respectively synchronously with the opposed feeding movements of theeccentric 17.

The shell or cluster formed by the herein disclosed mechanism may obviously have any suitable or desired number of stitches or loops. By an adjustment of the cams cooperating with the feed slide or by the employment of additional cams, I may, for example, form clusters of four, six or eightstitches or more. That form of my invention herein represented is adapted to produce ornamental borders, each shell whereof is composed of eight stitches. If desired, I may provide the edge of the fabric with a double row of shells. In such event, however, the outer overlying row of shells is fashioned as herein described.

At the front of the machine and in the line of feed of the fabric I provide a preferably removable finger 26, shown in detail in Figs. 11 and 12, the edge 27 of which acts as a former about or with respect to which the loops or stitches are laid. This finger is preferably slid into the work face of the machine and may be readily removed. The inner end 28 of said finger extends somewhat to the left of the needle 2, viewing Fig. 1, so that as the stitches are positioned by the needles, they are received by the narrowed inner end of said finger.

In forming the ornamental border, I preferably employ a main or sewing thread 29 carried by the sewing needle 2 and a supplemental thread 30 fed by the hook or guide 4. I also provide a crochet hook or sewing machine needle 3, to which is imparted a reciprocatory movement above and then beneath the face of the fabric and in substantial parallelism therewith. The needles 2, 3 may be operated in any suitable manner to impart the desired movements thereto.

In Figs. 6 to 10, I have diagrammatically indicated a single cycle of movement of the needles 2, 3 whereby one of the stitches of a shell is laid, it being understood that each stitch is made up of two lengths or portions of thread constituting a bight or loop. In Fig. 6, the main thread is represented as extending from the point 31 of the fabric which constitutes a center from which certain of the stitches of the shell radiate. The hook of the knitting needle 3 is positioned to the left of both threads, and as indicated in Figs. 7, 8 and 9 draws them to the right and positions them in the formation of the shell. The needle 3 is then moved to the left beneath the fabric to the lower face of the fabric, as indicated in Fig. 10, thereby completing one cycle of movement and positioning a single stitch of the shell or cluster. This operation is repeated until a suitable number of stitches to complete the shell are formed. The outer edge of the shell is formed of crocheted loops substantially as indicated in the Merrow Patent, No. 411,233, and the supplemental thread preferably enters only into the crocheted port-ions of the loops. If a double border be desired, then after the fabric has been run once through the machine and a single series of clusters has been formed along or near its edge, the fabric is run again through the machine and the outer series of clusters is formed in or upon the inner series or between it and the extreme edge and extends outward therefrom in the manner herein described.

Heretofore in the formation of borders composed of a series of shells or clusters, the stitches as laid or during the formation of each shell or cluster slide or are forced by succeeding stitches in the direction of the forward feed of the fabric, as indicated in Fig. 13 wherein the first laid stitches are indicated at 31. Therefore, and assuming the cluster to be formed of eight stitches, it is obvious that the first three or four stitches extend in a forward direction or generally in the direction in which the fabric is fed; that is, toward the right viewing Fig. 1 or Fig. 13. The final stitches of the shell are extended in a direction opposite to the forward feed of the fabric, because the sewing machine needle which introduces the main sewing thread and the knitting needle do not participate in the forward feeding movement of the fabric, and hence tend to draw the last formed stitches or loops of the shell rearwardly, or so that they radiate toward the right instead of toward the left and in the manner indicated in the Herr-ow Patents, No. 413,077 and N0. 114,233. Intermediate stitches or loops of the cluster extend directly outward so that a general fanshaped effect is produced.

In carrying out my invention and assuming that the shell or cluster is composed of eight stitches, a certain number of stitches, say three, are laid when the fabric is stationary, that is, after it has been moved into a new position following the formation of the preceding shell or cluster, as indicated in Fig. 1 1. Thereupon the fabric is moved slightly to the rear and the remaining stitches of the cluster are laid or positioned.

It will be'noted that the edge 32 of the finger 26, which is the edge overlying the fabric and adjacent the sewing machine needle 2, is substantially straight and is of the full thickness of the finger. The forward portion of the finger is narrowed as indicated in Figs. 12 and 14: gradually tapering to the point 28. The tapering portion is preferably not wholly straight but is provided with a slight swell 3 1. The upper face of the finger is beveled or tapered off slightly to the outer edge, as indicated in Fig. 12, so that it will not be interfered with by the hook 1, and the said narrowed end of the finger is made as thin as possible, as indicated in 1*.ig. 11, to give more room for the stitches constituting the clusters or shells. h'loreover the finger is relatively broader than those heretofore employed, as will be seen by comparing Figs. 13 and 14, in order to compel an increased length of thread to enter into each of the stitches, so that the completed shell or cluster is more puffy or elevated than those heretofore formed by machines and does not lie flat or compressed against the face of the fabric in a manner characteristic of former machine made shells or clusters of ornamental borders.

As the mechanism herein represented is adjusted the first three stitches of each shell or those lettered A, B and C in Fig. 15, are laid when the fabric has been fed forward to a new position inunediately following the preceding cluster or shell. Owing to the described shape of the finger 26, these three stitches practically do not slide forward, but are substantially held in their position as laid. These three stitches radiate from the center a. Thercupon the fabric is moved to the rear slightly as described, so that the succeeding threads of the shell radiate or extend from a new center I), which is very slightly to the rear of the center a. Preferably the first threads of those laid from the center I), as, for example, threads D, E,

partially overlie the threads B and C, so that even though the threads B and C do radiate very slightly to the left, they are partially concealed by the overlying threads. In the same manner, the thread A may be overlaid if desired, but this would unduly narrow the shell. Practically, however, the threads A, B and C do not radiate toward the left, and the whole general effect of the threads or stitches of the shell is an inclination or curl toward the right, as clearly indicated in Fig. 15.

Inasmuch as in forming the shell or cluster as disclosed in the said ll/Ierrow patents, all the stitches radiate from a. common point, it is obvious that the tendency of each succeeding stitch was to crowd the others forwardly in the direction of feed of the fabric. By laying certain of the stitches from a new center as described, this tendency is overcome and all the threads extend in a direction opposite to the feed of the fabric. It will be evident from the fore going that I have provided bi-centering, feeding means to vary the relative position of the fabric with respect to the stitch securing means, between the securing of the first and the last stitches of a shell or cluster formation. The outer edge of the shell is crocheted by the knitting needle or crochet hook 3, as substantially indicated in the Merrow Patent, No. 414,233. The engagement of the knitting needle with the last stitch of each cluster or shell as the fabric is fed forward after the completion of the shell draws all the threads toward the right,-that is, in a direction opposite to the feed of the fabric, as illustrated in Fig. 15.

The raised or puffed appearance of the stitches making up each shell or cluster is owing not only to the fact that more thread enters into the formation of each stitch by reason of the broadened finger, but also to the fact that the stitches are not permitted substantially to slide along the finger toward its point, as heretofore, but are maintained substantially as laid.

In practice it may happen that in laying the threads or stitches from the second center; that is, in laying the five stitches from the second center as herein described, the fabric may as a matter of fact be fed slightly forward by the stitches themselves,that is to say, the first, third or fourth of said five stitches may crowd the fabric slightly forward, so that the last one or two stitches of said five stitches may be laid from the old or first center. This, however, is within the scope of my invention.

It will be understood that the representa tion in Figs. 14 and 15 is diagrammatic only and does not illustrate more than approximately or generally the positions assumed by the stitches of a shell.

Obviously by suitably varying the operation of the parts, the stitches may all or approximately all be given a general trend in the opposite direction, that is, toward the left viewing Fig. 15.

Within the scope of my invention the stitches making up a single shell or cluster may be laid from two or even from more than two centers in any suitable manner. It is immaterial so far as the invention is concerned in what sequence the stitches be laid or from which one of the two or more centers stitches be first laid. Further, the stitches making up a single shell or cluster may be laid in any suitable manner otherwise than by plural centering mechanism to give them a general trend to the right or to the left as described.

Having thus described one illustrative embodiment of my invention, I desire it to be understood that although specific terms are employed, they are used in a generic and descriptive sense and not for purposes of limitation, the scope of the invention being set forth. in the following claims.

1. Border forming mechanism for fabrics comprising in combination means to feed the fabric step-by-step in one direction, means periodically to reverse the feed of said fabric, means to cause each of a series of stitches to penetrate said fabric and to position said stitches in a general shell or cluster formation and including means to cause certain of said stitches less than the whole number thereof to penetrate the fabric at substantially a common point, and means to cause an additional number of said stitches to penetrate the fabric at a point slightly spaced therefrom.

2. Border forming mechanism for fabrics comprising in combination means to feed the fabric step-by-step in one direction, means periodically to reverse the feed of the fabric, stitch forming mechanism including means to cause each of a series of stitches to penetrate the fabric and to position said stitches in a general shell or cluster formation, and means timed to co-act with said feeding means to effect the said stitclrpenetration of the fabric at a plurality of points.

8. Border forming mechanism for fabrics comprising in combination, means to form a series of stitches, each penetrating said fabric and extending in a general shell or cluster formation, means to feed the fabric in one direction, and means to reverse the feed of the fabric between the penetration of the first and last stitches of said series, thereby to cause said stitch penetration to occur at a plurality of spaced points.

4. Border forming mechanism for fabrics comprising in combination means to position a series of stitches in a general shell or cluster formation, a fabric feed slide and an v eccent-ric for imparting opposed feeding movements thereto.

5. Border forming mechanism for fabrics comprising in combination means to position a series of stitches in a general shell or cluster formation, a fabric feed slide having oppositely positioned sets of feeding teeth and an eccentric to impart opposed feeding movements to said slide.

6. Border forming mechanism for fabrics comprising in combination means to position a series of stitches in a general shell or cluster formation, a rotatable member having a plurality of cams, a feed slide moved in turn by said cams into engagement with the work and means timed in action with said cams to impart opposed feeding movements to said slide when in engagement With the work.

7 Border forming mechanism for fabrics comprising in combination means to position a series of stitches in a general shell or cluster formation, a rotatable member having cams 21 and 24, a feed slide adapted to be lifted by said cams in turn and eccentric means to impart opposed feeding movements to said slide.

8. Border forming mechanism for fabrics comprising in combination means to position a series of stitches in a general shell or cluster formation, a fabric feed member, and means to move said member for different periods of time into feeding relation with the fabric.

9. Border forming mechanism for fabrics comprising in combination means to position a series of stitches in a general shell or cluster formation, a gear 13, cams 21 and 24 thereon, the latter having a thin edge 25 and an oppositely actuated feed member alternately acted upon by said cams.

' 10. Border forming mechanism for fabrics comprising in combination means to form a series of stitches, each penetrating said fabric and extending in a general shell or cluster formation, means to cause a relative advance of the fabric with respect to said stitch forming mechanism, and means to cause a relative retrogression of said fabric between the formation of the first and the last of said series of stitches, whereby said stitch penetration is caused to occur at a plurality of spaced points.

11. Border forming mechanism for fabrics comprising in combination means to position a series of stitches in a general shell or cluster formation, a feed slide 6 having opposed teeth 7, 7', feed arm 11 and eccentric 17 to impart opposite feeding movements to said slide, and a pair of devices operative periodically and for differential lengths of time upon said slide synchronously with the opposed feeding movements of said eccentric,

12. Border forming mechanism for fabrics comprising in combination means to position a series of stitches in a general shell or cluster formation, fabric feeding means and synchronously acting means to bring the feeding means and the fabric into feeding relation and to impart opposed feeding movements to said feeding means.

13. Border forming mechanism for fabrics comprising in combination means to form a series of stitches, each directly engaging said fabric and extending in a general shell or cluster formation, means to cause a relative advance of the fabric with respect to said stitch forming means, and means to cause a relative retrogression of said fabric between the formation and positioning of the first and the last of said series of stitches.

14. Border forming mechanism for fabrics comprising in combination means to form a series of stitches each penetrating the work and extending in a general shell or cluster formation and bi-centering feeding means to vary the relative position of the said fabric with respect to the stitch securing means between the securing of the first and. the last stitches of said series.

15. Border forming mechanism for fabrics comprising in combination means to form a series of stitches, each directly engaging said fabric and extending in a general shell or cluster formation, means to cause a relative advance of the fabric with respect to said stitch forming means, and means to cause a relative retrogression of said fabric between the formation and positioning of the first and the last of said series of stitches, said means including a feedslide having oppositely extending, .workengaging teeth arranged in two series and means to impart to and fro movement to said feed slide.

16. Border forming mechanism for fabrics comprising in combination a sewing needle, a crochet hook, means for imparting movement thereto, and a forming finger about which the stitches are positioned in a general shell or cluster formation, said parts constituting stitch forming means, means to cause a relative advance of the fabric with respect to said stitch forming means, and means to cause a relative retrogression of said fabric between the formation and positioning of the first and the last of said series of stitches.

17. Border forming mechanism for fabrics comprising in combination a sewing needle, a crochet hook, means to impart movement thereto, a forming finger to receive from said needle and hook a series of stitches of a general shell or cluster formation, a fabric feed slide having oppositely positioned sets of feeding teeth and an eeimpart opposite feeding movements to said slide.

In testimony whereof, I have signed my name to this specification, in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.

WILLIAM H. CARTER.

centric to impart opposed feeding movements to said slide.

18. Border forming mechanism for fabrics comprising in combination a sewing needle, a crochet hook, means to impart movement thereto, a forming finger to receive from said needle and hook a series of stitches of ageneral shell or cluster formation, a feed slide having oppositely positioned sets of feeding teeth and means to WVitnesses VILLIAM CARTER, PRESTON MITCHELL.

of this patent may be obtained for five cents each, by addressing the Commissioner of Patents,

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